Navigating Portugal: An LGBT + Travel Guide
Planning Your Perfect LGBTQ+ Inclusive Vacation to Portugal
Before every trip, we all search for a few key things to get our plans started:
"Top things to do in COUNTRY/CITY"
"How long to stay in COUNTRY/CITY?"
But for someone in the LGBT community, planning a trip involves more than that. We spend hours looking through forums and blogs for specific info. It's easy to find a country's laws online, but not how people feel about them. So, a queer traveller might (these are literal searches my partner and I make before most trips) search for:
"Is being gay legal in COUNTRY?"
"Gay rights in COUNTRY"
"Can I hold hands with my partner in COUNTRY?"
"Is kissing the same sex allowed in COUNTRY?"
"Gay bars in COUNTRY"
"Is COUNTRY safe for LGBT people?"
That's where I come in.
You can use Google for the laws, and Fayecation for the real scoop on attitudes. I've explored LGBTQ+ acceptance around the globe, and I'm here to help you travel those places safely.
Is Portugal LGBTQ+ Friendly?
Portugal is a one of the most beautiful countries in southern Europe. There are so many reasons to visit Portugal - Lisbon, the enchanting town of Sintra, the infamous Algarve, and Porto just being a few! Historically though, for people within the LGBTQ+ community, its Catholic background and 45 year old democracy has been a concern.
Portugal is now one of the world's most LGBT friendly countries. LGBTQ+ individuals enjoy rights like gay marriage and adoption. Cities such as Porto and Lisbon are welcoming and have large LGBT communities.
Despite most laws for LGBT rights being progressive, let's be real... There's still homophobia and transphobia in society, just like elsewhere in the world. Research suggests that Portuguese societal views tend to reflect homophobia and transphobia. Unfortunately, gay couples and trans people may still face yelling on the street, even in big cities and the capital.
In fact, out of the reported incidents of discrimination to ILGA Portugal in 2020, most of them were verbal insults and threats. Despite being known to be more accepting, Lisbon (32%) and Porto (15%) had the most reported incidents of discrimination and hate crimes against LGBT people. The Azores, for example, had 0 reports. This does not mean that discrimination does not occur, but rather that it goes unreported, or that LGBT people tend to move to urban areas. ILGA also found that 79% of young people had witnessed anti-LGBT bullying.
In fact, a report from ILGA Portugal published in 2020 presented evidence that a majority of discrimination based incidents against LGBT individuals were not physical altercations but rather verbal insults and threats which can be just as damaging to the well-being of those on the receiving end. Interestingly, even though they are perceived as more progressive and open-minded, the bustling cities of Lisbon with 32% and Porto with 15%, recorded the highest number of reported discrimination cases and acts constituting hate crimes directed at LGBT people.
In a stark contrast, The Azores, known for their tranquil beauty and serene landscapes, had absolutely zero reports of such discriminatory actions. However, this absence of reports should not be blindly interpreted as an absence of discrimination. There could be a myriad of reasons behind this. It's possible that discriminatory incidents are occurring but are not being reported due to various barriers, such as fear of further victimization or lack of trust in authorities. Another possibility is that LGBT people may gravitate towards city life where there's a perception of greater anonymity and community, thus leading to a lower population and potentially fewer reports of discrimination in less urbanized areas like The Azores.
Still, queer people in Portugal have persevered for decades and have built a beautiful community, and I can very honestly say from my own experiences, that I was more comfortable being publicly gay in Portugal (hand holding, kissing) than I am in my home country of England. In fact, the closest we got to 'discrimination' was a few judgemental looks, and even they were from tourists! The Portuguese and the locals we met on our trip from Faro to Porto didn't bat an eye as my partner and I held hands, held each other close for photos, or kissed in the sun!
Celebrating Pride: The History of the LGBTQ+ Movement in Portugal
In 1974, Portugal had a very peaceful revolution called the "Carnation Revolution." It ended a military dictatorship. Since then, Portuguese society has become more open-minded and forward-thinking. Furthermore, Portugal is currently considered one of the world’s top countries in protecting and advancing LGBT rights.
Portugal LGBT rights in improved a lot in the 2010s, with same sex marriage becoming legal in 2010. Here's a timeline of LGBT rights in Portugal:
1852 Same-sex sexual activity is decriminalized for the first time by Mary II and Ferdinand II.
1886 It becomes a crime again under Louis I.
1982 Same-sex sexual activity is decriminalized once more, years after the end of the harsh, homophobic fascist dictatorship.
1974 The "Diario de Lisboa" published a manifesto for the Liberation of Sexual Minorities. This started the LGBT movement in Portugal.
1999, The first gay Pride march took place in Lisbon.
2001 Same-sex unions are recognized, also referred to as De Facto Union, which was categorically not a marriage.
2003 Laws against discrimination regarding sexuality were introduced, including access to, and protection in, employment.
2004 Portugal added a ban on discrimination for sexual orientation to its Constitution, becoming one of the only countries to have such a ban. This did not only apply to employment which was only protected a year prior, but to all aspects of society.
2007 Hate crimes now encompass sexual orientation.
2008 Sexual orientation and gender identity are recognised reasons to apply for asylum in Portugal.
2010 Same-sex marriage is legalized by the Socrates Socialist Government.
2011 A new Law of Gender Identity allows trans people to change their legal gender on identity documents
2013 Hate crime laws now cover gender identity.
2015 Gender identity is protected in places of employment. May 17th becomes the “National Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia”.
2016 Same-sex adoption are allowed to adopt. Lesbian couples are able to access IVF, which was previously reserved solely for heterosexual couples.
2018 Adults over 18 can change their legal gender on documents without ANY requirements or conditions. However, minors aged 16 and 17 need parental consent and a psychological opinion, in order to change legal gender on the same documents. Intersex minors also get protection from invasive surgical procedures.
2021 During the COVID-19 pandemic, donations by men who have sex with men (MSM) were rejected. The Portuguese Institute of Blood and Transplantation then published new guidelines that said that MSM could give blood.
2023 The 25th Arraial Lisboa Pride takes place. The celebration takes over public spaces honors Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans, and Intersex individuals.
There has also been controversy in the past decade surrounding surrogacy. Surrogacy was completely banned but since August 2016, surrogacy has been allowed under certain scenarios such as when a woman is born without a uterus. These scenarios are quite restrictive and do not apply to same-sex couples, as well as most heterosexual people.
Tips for LGBTQ+ Travellers in Portugal: Safety, Etiquette, and Resources
Portugal ranks high as a destination for LGBT travelers, alongside Canada and Sweden.
Recent legal changes protecting trans and intersex people have catapulted Portugal to the top spot in the Spartacus gay travel guide—it was 27th before.
However, in some rural areas of Portugal, LGBT members may face discrimination or homophobia. As mentioned earlier, research shows that discrimination is prevalent, but know that you will have the support of the authorities should you report the crime.
Most LGBT Friendly Places in Portugal
1. Lisbon
Lisbon is one of the most LGBT-friendly European capitals, especially in Bairro Alto and Principe Real. The city boasts iconic gay bars, an underground drag scene, and a diverse queer community. As one of Western Europe's oldest cities, Lisbon has long had a gay scene. In the 18th century, writer William Beckford fled England due to gay allegations and settled in Sintra, near Lisbon. Now, Lisbon welcomes LGBT people with open arms and celebrates Gay Pride every June. It's also the birthplace of Amália Rodrigues, the famous Fado singer, and offers rich culture, history, and stunning views.
2. Porto
Porto, Portugal's second-largest city, has an emerging LGBT scene. Though it has fewer bars and events for LGBT folks than Lisbon, the community thrives with spots like Invictus drag club and Pride Coffee cafe. The city also has queer saunas like Sauna Camoes and Sauna Thermas 205. Tourists flock to Porto, named Best European Destination in 2010 and 2014. From Port wine tasting to historic sites and family activities, there's much to explore.
3. Algarve
The Algarve region isn't just for Lisbon and Porto; it's a haven for queer immigrants and retirees. This tourist-friendly area offers everything from luxury dining and hotels to gay nightclubs and top-notch beaches. The Algarve caters to LGBT visitors with specific retreats and hotels. Key cities for LGBT tourists include Tavira, Lagos, Albufeira, and Portimão.
Exploring LGBTQ+ Friendly Destinations in Portugal
Cities like Lisbon and Porto are known for being very open to LGBT folks. The Algarve is friendly too. Here's a quick look at some popular LGBT areas in Lisbon:
Principe Real
If you ask locals about LGBT places in Lisbon, they'll likely mention Principe Real first. This area is the heart of the city's LGBT scene and where the Pride march kicks off.
Bairro Alto
Bairro Alto is full of energy, with lots of bars and clubs that welcome everyone, including gay bars.
Arroios
In 2019, "Timeout" magazine called Arroios one of the coolest neighborhoods globally. It's got a young vibe and queer-friendly spots like Casa Independte and Anjos 70.
Is Portugal Safe for LGBT Travelers?
Portugal has a reputation for being open and friendly to LGBT visitors. In 2020, it was even ranked as one of the top countries for LGBT people. In fact, gay people are loving Portugal so much that they want to become permanent residents there, and thanks to the Golden Visa, they can!
The Portugal Golden Visa for Gay Couples
The Portugal Golden Visa is a citizenship via investment program where you invest in Portugal, in return for permanent residence there. After living there for five years, it is possible to become a Portuguese citizen.
LGBTQ+ investors like this golden visa program because it has many benefits. One of the best is for the community is "Family Reunification." This means the person who applies can also include their spouse and children in the program. They too can live in Portugal and later become citizens. Whilst Golden Visas are not a new concept, extending the rights and privilege to a minority community such as same-sex couples, is new, and quite frankly, ground breaking.
To qualify for the visa, there are different ways to invest, for example:
Invest €500,000 in real estate (€400,000 if it's in a low-density area).
Put €500,000 into a Portuguese fund.
Spend €350,000 to fix up a property (€280,000 in a low-density area).
Transfer €1.5 million to Portugal.
Create 10 jobs in Portugal.
Move €500,000 to get more shares in a company and make 5 new jobs.
Give €250,000 to the arts or national heritage.
Invest €500,000 in science and tech research.
The Best LGBTQ+ Bars, Clubs, and Nightlife in Portugal
1. Trumps, Lisbon
Trumps is the most famous LGBT club in Portugal. Open for nearly 40 years in Lisbon, it's hosted stars like António Variações and was many locals' first gay club experience. With its own dancers, DJs, and drag queens, Trumps has collaborated with World Pride and EuroPride. Located in the LGBT hub of Principe Real, it has won awards like Time Out’s Best Gay Night.
2. Finalmente, Lisbon
Finalmente, also in Principe Real, opened in 1976, offering a vibrant queer nightlife post-dictatorship. Known for high-quality drag shows, you'll see lip-sync battles and fresh drag talent here. Despite its size, Finalmente makes you feel part of the Portuguese drag scene.
3. Shelter Bar, Lisbon
Shelter Bar, a Bear Bar in Principe Real, welcomes everyone, beard or not. It offers happy hour specials and food for late nights. With music ranging from house to pop and 80s hits, Shelter Bar caters to all tastes.
4. Conceição 35, Porto
Conceição 35 in Porto may not be officially gay, but it's LGBT-friendly. By day, enjoy the bar and terrace; by night, dance on the floor. With live performances and delicious tapas, it's a charming spot.
5. The Loft, Algarve
In Portimão's heart, The Loft spans 200m² and holds up to 150 guests. It features a VIP area, lounge, and big dance floor. Its sister bar, Garage Bar, serves weekly new cocktails. Open until 4 am on weekends, The Loft is stylish and date-worthy.
6. Connection Bar, Algarve
Connection Bar in Albufeira overlooks the famous Strip from Vilanova Resort's terrace. Closed in winter as the owners travel, it's a summer hotspot for a pre-club beer or gin and tonic, closing at 2 am.
7. Lux Frágil, Lisbon
Lux Frágil, a large Lisbon club, isn't exclusively gay but is popular with LGBT folks. Known as Lux, it offers three floors of techno and house music and river views. Open since 1999, it stays lively until 8 am.
LGBT Associations in Portugal
Looking to support LGBT rights in Portugal? Here are some leading organizations:
1. ILGA
Since 1997, ILGA has been a key group for LGBT rights in Portugal. They offer cultural and political events and free legal and psychological counseling for the LGBTI community.
2. Clube Safo
Founded in 1996 in Aveiro, Clube Safo is a lesbian group promoting rights and community through cultural events and political advocacy.
3. Opus Diversidades (Formerly Opus Gay)
Opus Diversidades advocates for LGBT rights and supports migrants and women against discrimination. They offer free therapy and work on eco-friendly initiatives.
4. Transmissao
Transmissao represents trans and non-binary individuals, fighting for self-identity and gender expression freedom. They organize activities, including a clothing swap event in Almada.
5. Casa T Lisboa
Casa T Lisboa is the first shelter for trans immigrants, created by them during the pandemic. Facing evictions, they need donations for survival. You can help Casa T here.